Peonies are among the most cherished garden plants in Europe, known for their lush blooms, rich fragrance and ability to thrive for decades with the right care. This complete guide shows you how to plant peonies – and in particular bare-root peony roots – for lasting success, from timing and preparation to aftercare in the first year.
Whether you have a cottage garden or a formal border, the steps are the same: the right time, the right spot and, above all, the right planting depth. Ready to start? Explore all peony varieties.
Why Planting Peonies Is Worth the Effort
Peonies need a little patience at first, but the rewards are long-lasting: once established, they can flower in the same spot for 50 years or more with minimal care. Their large, ruffled blooms come in soft pastels to bold reds, many are fragrant, and the foliage stays attractive all summer.
There are three main types:
- Herbaceous peonies – die back in winter and re-emerge every spring.
- Tree peonies – woody shrubs with very large, early flowers.
- Itoh peonies – crosses between the two, with strong stems and a long flowering period.
Not sure which suits you? Read Itoh vs. tree vs. herbaceous peonies.
When to Plant Peonies: The Best Time of Year
In most of Europe the best time to plant peony roots is autumn, from September to November. The soil is still warm, so the roots can establish before winter and the plant grows away strongly in spring. Spring planting (March–April) is a good second option, but spring-planted peonies may need an extra year to flower.
As a rough guide across Europe:
- Northern Europe (Scandinavia, Baltic states): early to mid-September
- Central Europe (Germany, Poland, the Netherlands, Belgium): mid-September to late October
- Southern Europe (Italy, Spain, southern France): October to mid-November
Avoid planting in summer heat or into frozen ground. For month-by-month advice, see our peony planting calendar and when is the best time to plant peonies?
Choosing and Preparing Peony Roots
Understanding bare-root peonies
Bare-root peonies are dormant plants supplied without soil: thick, fleshy storage roots with visible pink, red or white buds (“eyes”) that will become next year’s stems. Because they are dormant, they are easy to ship and plant, with little transplant shock. A good root has 3–5 eyes and firm, plump tubers – avoid roots that are dry, mouldy or shrivelled. Read more in why professionals choose dormant roots.
What you’ll need
- A healthy peony root with 3–5 eyes
- A spade, hand trowel and gloves
- Compost or well-rotted manure
- A low-nitrogen fertiliser for later (not at planting time)
- Water to soak the soil after planting
Storing roots before planting
If you can’t plant straight away, keep the roots in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place (about 4–10°C). Leave them in their packaging, don’t let them get wet and check every few days that they stay firm. See your bare-root peony just arrived: plant or store?
Where to Plant Peonies
Selecting the right spot
Peonies need at least 6 hours of direct sun a day; morning sun helps dry the dew and reduces disease. Keep them away from tree and shrub roots, allow at least 50 cm from walls and fences for airflow, and choose a spot sheltered from strong wind if possible. Space plants 75–90 cm apart.
Soil preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, loamy soil with a pH of about 6.5–7.0. Remove weeds, stones and old roots, loosen the soil to 30–40 cm deep and mix in compost or well-rotted manure. On heavy clay, improve drainage with grit or coarse sand, or plant in a raised bed. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertiliser: it gives lush leaves but few flowers. More in soil preparation for peonies.
How Deep to Plant Peony Roots
Planting depth is the single most important factor for flowering. The eyes should sit 3–5 cm below the soil surface, measured from the top of the highest eye. Plant deeper and the peony may grow leaves for years without flowering; plant too shallow and the root can dry out or be damaged by frost.
- Colder regions: keep to the deeper end (about 5 cm) for frost protection.
- Mild or warm regions: keep the eyes closer to the surface (about 2.5 cm) so the plant gets enough winter chill to flower.
- Itoh peonies: 2–5 cm. Tree peonies are planted at the depth they grew in the nursery.
Set the root more or less horizontally with the eyes facing up and spread the tubers gently. For the science behind it, read the two-inch rule.
Step-by-Step: How to Plant Peony Roots
- Choose the location: a sunny, open spot with good airflow and no root competition.
- Prepare the soil: loosen to 30–40 cm, mix in compost, aim for a pH of about 6.5–7.0.
- Inspect the root: it should be firm, with visible eyes. Trim away any damaged or very dry parts. Soaking is optional: only slightly dry roots benefit from 1–2 hours in lukewarm water – see should you soak peony roots?
- Dig the hole: about 30–40 cm wide and 30 cm deep, and loosen the bottom.
- Add drainage if needed: on heavy soil, a thin layer of grit or coarse sand at the bottom prevents waterlogging.
- Make a mound: return some enriched soil to the hole and form a small mound in the centre.
- Position the root: place it on the mound with the eyes up, at the correct depth (3–5 cm below the surface).
- Backfill and firm: fill the hole, pressing lightly to remove air pockets without compacting the soil.
- Water thoroughly: a deep soak settles the soil around the root.
- Mulch and label: in cold regions, add a light mulch of straw or bark for the first winter (not directly on the crown), and mark the spot so you don’t disturb it.
Aftercare and First-Year Tips
Watering
Keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy – in the first weeks, water about every 5–7 days depending on the weather. Once established, peonies tolerate dry spells, but regular watering in the first season helps the roots settle.
Feeding
Don’t fertilise at planting. Wait until new shoots appear in spring, then give a balanced, slow-release, low-nitrogen fertiliser. See the peony spring fertiliser guide.
Pruning
Don’t cut back green foliage in the first year unless it is diseased: the leaves feed the root. In late autumn, once the foliage has yellowed, cut herbaceous peonies back to ground level.
Leave them in place
Avoid moving a peony in its first two or three years – peonies dislike disturbance and may stop flowering if moved too soon.
Be patient
A newly planted root usually flowers from its 2nd or 3rd year and then every year for decades. For year-round care, read our peony care guide.
Common Mistakes When Planting Peonies
- Planting too deep – the number one reason peonies don’t flower. Keep the eyes 3–5 cm below the surface.
- Too much shade – less than 6 hours of sun means few flowers and more disease.
- Overwatering and poor drainage – soggy soil causes root rot. Improve heavy soil or use a raised bed.
- Planting against walls or fences – poor airflow and heat build-up encourage fungal problems. Leave at least 50 cm.
- Crowding – keep 75–90 cm between peonies and other large perennials.
- Fertilising too soon or too much – fertiliser at planting can burn young roots; nitrogen gives leaves instead of flowers.
Conclusion: Enjoy a Lifetime of Peony Blooms
Planting peonies correctly is simple when you follow the key rules: choose a healthy root with 3–5 eyes, plant in autumn if you can, give full sun and good drainage, and keep the eyes just 3–5 cm below the surface. With a little patience, your peonies will reward you with decades of beauty. Browse our peony collection – herbaceous, Itoh and tree peonies in every colour.
FAQs on Planting Peonies
When is the best time to plant peonies?
Autumn, from September to November, while the soil is still workable and cooling down. In northern Europe plant earlier (September), in southern Europe later (into November). Spring planting also works but flowering may take a year longer.
How deep should I plant peony roots?
With the eyes 3–5 cm below the soil surface (about 2.5 cm in mild climates, 2–5 cm for Itoh peonies). Too deep can prevent flowering; too shallow exposes the root to frost.
Should I soak peony roots before planting?
Only if they look slightly dry: 1–2 hours in lukewarm water is enough. Fresh, plump roots don’t need soaking, and soaking too long can cause rot.
How do I know if my peony root is alive?
A healthy root is firm and fleshy, with visible eyes on the crown. Slight dryness can be revived, but a root that is soft, hollow, mouldy or has no eyes at all is unlikely to grow. See dry, wrinkled or broken roots.
What is the best soil for peonies?
Well-draining, loamy soil with a pH of 6.5–7.0, enriched with compost. Avoid heavy, waterlogged clay unless you improve it or plant in a raised bed.
How far apart should I plant peony roots?
About 75–90 cm apart, to allow for mature size and good airflow, which helps prevent mildew.
Can I plant peonies in containers?
Yes, especially compact varieties. Use a deep pot (at least 45 cm) with drainage holes and rich, light soil, and give extra winter protection. See growing peonies in containers and our patio peonies.
Should I water peony roots immediately after planting?
Yes. Water thoroughly to remove air pockets, then keep the soil slightly moist but never soggy for the next few weeks.
Why aren’t my newly planted peonies blooming?
Usually because they are still settling in (flowering typically starts in year 2–3), planted too deep or not getting enough sun. Read why is my peony not flowering?🌱 Shop all peonies →
